Conquest of the Scaramouche

Conquest of the Scaramouche

The "Scaramouche" at the Hohen Göll in Berchtesgaden is not one of the heaviest alpine routes, but it is one of the climbing classics. 


Ines Papert and Josef Pfnür

In 1989 it was opened by the brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber. But until it was climbed for the first time rotpunkt, it took another 20 years. The professional and Lowa-pro team athlete Ines Papert and her colleague from the active team Josef "Steno" Pfnür have now done exactly that.

The conditions at the beginning of September were anything but easy.

On the day of the crossing, when the two climbing partners wanted to take the first seam length under the magnifying glass, they had to make a frightening discovery.

The first section, rated 8a, was extremely wet. "We were already throwing the towel that day," Steno said at first in a bad mood. "But then I thought, maybe I can pull myself over." And that's exactly how it was done. Although Steno still can not believe it, the first length is already the most difficult, but everything went without a crash. "But when you have the first length, it means nothing for a long time. The difficulty assessments are not to be deceived, "Steno summed up his cautious optimism.

Finally, much depends on the skill of the respective athlete. The "Scaramouche" is one of the most difficult technical routes in the Alps. The hedges with drilling hooks are very economical, almost typical of a Huber route. In addition, each athlete climbs somewhat differently. As Steno himself says, he has done more easily at 9+ than at the third, an 8+ record.

Overall, the two athletes scored perfectly - Steno managed to finish third, and the second attempt, all lengths right away. "A heartfelt thanks to Ines Papert, who gave me a great deal of support and joy in the project and, of course, the first-time admirers Thomas and Alexander Huber," Steno thanks for the realization of a climbing room.