The manufacture of trekking footwear is performed in many different individual steps. Most of the processes are done by hand. This high quality work, together with leading-edge materials and a shoemaking tradition totalling more than 80 years, goes into every single shoe and boot made by LOWA, whether it is a mountaineering boot, a trekking boot or a lightweight hiking shoe.

In this context it is perhaps worth stressing that not a single animal has to lose its life for the production of the leathers we use.

The leather

Leather is the most important material in the manufacture of footwear. In general, the leather is animal hide that has been tanned to render it durable.

Leather is very tough and abrasion-resistant. It is elastic, pliable, holds its shape well and, depending on the treatment it receives, will absorb water vapour to a greater or lesser degree. In addition, it can be treated and rendered water-resistant at the tanning stage, in a process known as hydrophobicizing.

LOWA uses exclusively hand-selected leathers of European origin. These are, of course free of harmful PCP and AZO-dyes.

The tanning agents used on our high quality leathers are bonded firmly to the fibres of the hide.

Our tanneries employ processes that are as environmentally friendly as possible and all have their own on-site water purification systems.

Leather selection

Various leathers are available; the type used in the manufacture our footwear depends on the use to which the footwear will be put:

Smooth leather: the upper layers of the hide, prone to scratching

Nubuk leather: upper hide layers, slightly ‘roughed up´ and thus relatively insensitive to abrasion, ideal for trekking boots

Velour leather/ split leather: middle hide layers, fibres visible, very durable, limited elasticity and tear-resistance.

Reversed leather ("hunting" or "roughout" leather): very tough and durable outer surface with stable reverse side, ideal for mountain boots.

In its naturally occurring form, cow hide is about 6-8 mm thick and thus must be split. The decision about where to make the split ( thick grained leather + thin split leather or vice versa) is made during the tanning process.

Cutting-out (pattern making)

Hydraulic presses force a blade through the leather, a little like biscuit-making.

The structure and elasticity of the pieces of leather can vary considerably; the quality of the finished product (the footwear) depends upon where the cutting-out blade is placed on the leather.

Each section of the shoe requires its own blade, as does each individual size.

Sewing

The sections of leather must be sewn together with exact accuracy, using powerful sewing machines.

The seams of the Gore-Tex® lining are tape sealed after the sewing process is complete.

Adhesive and lacing system components

A spray adhesive process exclusive to LOWA ensures that the pores of the leather remain open in order to wick water vapour molecules away from the foot.

Attachment of the various metal rings and hooks is accomplished on specialised riveting machines.

The last

"The cobbler who does not know his last will remain forever a bungler"
(Goethe)

The term "last" refers to the foot-shaped, pre-formed wooden or plastic mould on which the shoe is built.

The shoe (or the upper of the shoe) is basically modelled around the last, to produce the characteristic fit peculiar to the manufacturer or to the use for which the footwear is intended and to guarantee that the comfortable fit extends also to the inner.

Each type of shoe or boot has its own special lasts, which are modelled in accordance with particular requirements and the personal experience of the shoemaker.

At LOWA, of course, we use specially shaped lasts for our ladies´ models.

"Shaping to fit"

A strange-sounding term, perhaps, but one which, to the cobbler, adequately describes the difficult process of shaping and fixing in place the uppers of the shoe to the last.

Heavy, computer-controlled machinery is employed to draw the uppers over the last until a tight fit is achieved (picture 2).

The pincers of the machine pull the lower edge of the uppers in a downwards direction; this is then fixed ("welted") to the insole (the lighter area visible in picture 3) mounted on the last using either adhesive or small nails. It is to this insole – which is either soft and pliant or as hard as steel, depending on the desired flexibility of the footwear - that the main sole unit will later be attached.

The rubber rand

The strip of rubber that forms the rand of the shoe is attached in a separate process at LOWA – a typical mark of quality of the brand. This rubber "bandage" runs all the way round the shoe and protects the leather from mechanical damage and moisture.

The soles

LOWA uses most exclusively rubber sole units. Generally, these units also incorporate a shock-absorbing midsole consisting of high density PU foam.

Both the underside of the shaped uppers and the sole section itself must be carefully prepared before they are glued and bonded together in the hydraulic press.

After pressing, a "cool tunnel" completes the adhesive process.

Removing the last

On completion of the production process the last, which determines the shape of the footwear, is removed from the finished shoe by machine.

Until a few years ago, this strenuous procedure was accomplished by hand. Nowadays, heavy machinery does the job.

Finish

During the final quality control phase the footwear receives a protective finish.

Thereafter, they are equipped with laces, inner soles and product hang tags and finally packed.

Dispatch

The footwear is stored in LOWA’s finished goods warehouse, awaiting dispatch to the customer.